RHR Gymkhana Racing, Inc
the ultimate in Gymkhana
and Gymkhana Match Racing
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Questions & Answers

Ask the Experts

During this past year we added a column to our newsletter called “Ask The Experts” which because of the nature of the questions soon became “Ask Orlando”.   Shortly thereafter we got a new Rules Chairman and since we frequently receive question about rules, we’re changing the name back to “Ask the Experts”.   Don’t worry, Orlando is still here and ready to answer your questions just like before.  But now Bob Manley is here also so if you have any questions send them in.  If we don’t know the answer we’ll find someone that does.

 Here are some of the questions received and the answers:

   Dear Orlando, I keep reading about the "Basic Handle" which I understand is a series of "exercises" you do with your horse that doesn't seem to pertain to any particular discipline (gymkhana-English-jumping-polo-reining-roping--etc).   Why is the Basic Handle important?

 The "Basic Handle"
   First let’s start with what the “basic handle” is. The “basic handle” starts with the simplest maneuvers and slowly builds in complexity, keeping anxiety and stress to a minimum.  The ten progressive steps of the BASIC HANDLE put a solid and safe foundation on the horse. This program also utilizes a multitude of advanced maneuvers and supplying exercises. The result is a well broke horse, ready to specialize in whatever riding style or event the owner may choose.

The components of the basic handle include:
• Natural Depart to the Correct Lead
• Drop to Trot Lead Change
• Natural Flying Lead Change
• Collected Depart and Collected Lead Change
• Balanced Stop
• Rollback
• Inside Roll (out the opposite lead)
• 360 Degree Roll
• Same Lead Rolls
• Spins

 Any particular discipline could be broken down to basic maneuvers.  Once we start to break it down we see that they are pretty simple maneuvers:  whether we chase a cow, turn a pole or barrel or complete a jumping course.  What people usually find once they start the basic handle and progress in the system is that for as basic as you can make it, it also can be very difficult as you increase the speed. 
   The other aspect of the basic handle that people realize is that it is much more difficult than the discipline they are competing in.  Thus those than can perform the basic handle proficiently and smoothly usually excel in ANY discipline they choose.  And because the horse is so versatile the horse can go out and compete in multiple disciplines and be competitive.  You don’t just have a “barrel horse” or a “trail horse”, you have an animal that you can do anything and everything. 
   We all know that things never run smoothly 100% of the time, so when you run into a bind with your horse you can always go back to the basic handle and fix the issue that you were having.  The Basic Handle is prepares us and our horse for pretty much anything we want to do on horseback.

Dear Orlando,
   I have been going to several of the RHR Gymkhana shows at Campo and I noticed that you always seem to do training rides but you don't seem to be training your horse because you usually go through the course very slowly and you normally don't even start when the buzzer goes off.  What goes?

    This is a very good question regarding training rides.  Some people are of the perception that because you are not running full out during a training ride that you are not training.  In reality training rides are not designed to teach your horse the course/pattern.  That should be left up to practice at home.  Training rides are designed to keep your horse calm and controlled for match racing purposes.  There are circumstances that cannot be recreated at home (the buzzer, horses in other lanes), and we can use these circumstances to our advantage. There are different approaches to training rides, and they all deal with the anticipation of the horse.  As we start match racing our horses start to associate certain things, they start to realize that the buzzer means go and we run when other horses run.  At first this may seem pretty cool because we feel like we no longer have to cue our horses to run/race and they do it automatically, but what tends to happen is that they start to get amped up and want to leave earlier and earlier. 
    What we have done is trained them to do that, we allowed them to develop those habits and now we are trying to figure out what to do or how to fix it.  We then start to think that this behavior came out of the blue when in fact it had been escalating all along.  What we try and do is not have the horse anticipate and instead have him follow our cues.  What this means is that the horse should go when we ask him to and not when they think they should go. They have no concept of fouling out but we do, so we may want to hold up at the buzzer sound an extra second.  This is easily accomplished, we hold our horse up even if the buzzer goes off, this teaches them that buzzer sound doesn’t necessarily mean go.  Also, going through the course doesn’t always mean run it as fast as possible, you may want to run it at a slower pace for a variety of reasons.  The biggest and most important reason is to save your horse’s energy.  Our goal during our runs should be to run the fastest, cleanest run possible under control, why would we want to use up that energy during a training run when the time doesn’t count?  Something else that could be done during a training ride is running the course at a good pace and just walk back home.  This does two things, it shows that you have control over your horse and it shows that you horse is listening, and it also is saving your horse’s energy.
   Remember the important aspects of match racing; timing, control and most of all having fun!

Dear Orlando,
 I have a 15 year old horse that normally is just a prince.    He almost always does exactly what I ask him to and rarely gets excited about anything.    Yesterday while I was riding him in my arena, my dog took off chasing something and that didn't bother him but a few minutes later he started dancing and prancing so badly that I got off him and put him away.    My brother said I made a mistake and should have stayed on him because now he knows all he has to do is "dance and prance" and I'll put him back in his stall.    What do you think?

   As we all know when dealing with horses very rarely do we encounter something that is either “black or white”.  There is always some sort of variable that inevitably changes how we deal with a situation.  In this instance I would say safety first, if you were not comfortable with him prancing and acting anxious then you should do whatever you think is right to be safe.  As far as the horse learning that all he has to do is act that way and you will put him away may or may not be true.  Horses learn (like humans) through repetition, this goes for both bad AND good habits.  Usually we have an unrealistic expectation that our horses should learn good habits fairly quickly and unlearn bad habits quickly also.  Habits both good and bad take time to develop.  Horses don’t rationalize like we do and have a completely different way of thinking; they do not categorize good and bad behavior like we do.
    In your set of circumstances he did have something that caused him to act the way he did, he did not think it was good or bad behavior, he was reacting to whatever situation he perceived.  I would say if he exhibits this behavior out of the blue for absolutely no reason then it has become a habit.  If you want to both be safe AND prevent this from being a habit I suggest that you dismount and not put him away right away.  Do some other activity with him, walk him around or tie him up and let him stand for fifteen minutes.  This way he doesn’t associate the dismount with putting him away back to his stall.  To the horse it’s just another activity and he really has no clue what you are going to do next.
    Remember safety comes above everything else.  If you feel that you still are having trouble or do not feel confident in dealing with the situation have a friend with some experience help you out.

Orlando,
   I have heard you talk about “posting a diagonal”.   I know how to post but what difference does it make what diagonal I’m on?

That is a very good question regarding diagonals.  To best answer that question and maybe clarify diagonals for those of you that are unclear about them here is an article by Ron Petracek.

Diagonals Demystified by Ron Petracek:
If you are new to riding, chances are you’ve heard the word “diagonal” bandied about. But what exactly is a diagonal, and how does it pertain to your riding? Keep reading and you’ll find out!     Basically, “diagonal” means opposite corner. When a horse trots, his legs move in diagonal pairs. Think about it. When your horse’s left front leg is forward, so is his rear right leg. When his right front leg is forward, so is his left rear leg.   When the left front and right back legs are forward, this is called the left diagonal. When the right front and left back legs are forward, this is called the right diagonal.

Posting on the Diagonal:
When you are riding in a ring, it is important that you post on the correct diagonal. Why? Because it is easier for your horse to balance on a turn if you are on the correct diagonal. So, what is the correct diagonal? If you are working in a ring, the correct diagonal is the outside diagonal. In other words, if you are traveling to the right around a ring, the correct diagonal is when the left front leg and right back leg are forward. If you are traveling left around the ring, the outside diagonal is when the right front leg and left back leg are forward.  So how does this work when you are posting? Well, when you are posting on the correct diagonal when going to the right, you would rise when the front left leg is extended, and sit when the right front leg is extended. Conversely, when traveling to the left, you would rise when the right front leg was forward, and sit when the left front leg was forward. Some instructors put colored bandages on the horses front legs to help new riders learn their diagonals.  What happens if you aren’t riding in ring? What if you are out riding on the trails? Which diagonal is correct in that case? Well, if you are taking a trot down the road, then either diagonal will do. Just pick one! However, you should know the horse’s legs you are posting on work harder than those you are not posting on. To that end, it’s always a good idea to switch diagonals every now and again to give your horse a break. His muscles will surely appreciate it!

Determining Your Diagonal:
There is so much to think about when you are riding! How, amidst all this, can you tell if you are on the right diagonal?  Well, determining whether you are on the right diagonal is actually much easier than it sounds. Try this. Begin by getting into a nice, steady trot along the rail. As you sit, take a quick look down at your horse’s outside shoulder. Is the outside shoulder back when you sit? If it is, you are on the correct diagonal. If you find that the outside shoulder is forward as you sit, then you are on the wrong diagonal. You are going to have to change it. So how do you do that? 

Changing Diagonals:
Changing diagonals is much easier than it sounds. When you post, you are alternating between sitting and rising. Sit, rise, sit, rise, sit rise. To change your diagonal, just sit for an extra beat—sit, rise, sit, sit, rise, sit, rise. And voila! You are now on a different diagonal! Make sure you sit for two beats only—if you sit for three beats, you’ll end up right back on the same diagonal you started on.  With a little experience, you’ll be able to feel whether you are on the right diagonal, and won’t have to look down any more. Happy riding!

    My horse is a 16 year old mare that gives every indication of loving people.  She is always the 1st one to the fence when I go down and seems to love to be handled.   Sometimes however when there are other horses around she bears her teeth as if to bit them.  She does not actually go after them but rather will reach down and bite her own chest.   ?????   Also occasionally and sporadically my horse cow kicks while I am saddling or otherwise grooming her.    I'm pretty sure but not certain she is not kicking at flies.    She is otherwise a very gentile horse and does not seem to be afraid of anything except ostriches.   What do you think and what should I do."

   In order to best answer this question lets take a look at horse behavior and how horses communicate.  Horses are herd animals, and within this herd there is a hierarchy.  In this hierarchy there are horses at the top, the middle and bottom, these rankings are established pretty quickly and rarely change.  Once horses know their ranking they stay pretty consistent.  And believe it or not the ones at the very top are usually mares.  This is the language of horses and this is a concept they understand.  They cannot comprehend the difference between a 170 lb human adult and their 1100 lb playmate. Which, unless a hierarchy has been established they will treat you however they view you in their world.  Our goal is for them to view us in a higher ranking, for them to respect us.

 When your horse bares her teeth as if to bite other horses is her way of saying “You better not come any closer”.  When she bites her chest (and this is just a guess) she is probably in her stall and can’t really go after them like she would like, the equivalent of us banging our head against the wall when we don’t get our way.

 Most horses would be perfectly happy eating, drinking, you giving them treats and turning them out, that’s not work.  You put a halter on them, start brushing them, and put a saddle on them they know we are going to ask something of them that isn’t as easy as playing with their buddies.  Her kicking out is her way of saying “I’m not too thrilled about all of this”.  It doesn’t mean she doesn’t like going out for a ride but given the choice of sitting on the couch and watching TV with a beverage of my choice or going out for a brisk walk what do you think most men would choose? 

 But this behavior that she exhibits can be very dangerous to you and anybody that is in the general vicinity when she expresses her feelings.  Again remember she cannot differentiate between what will hurt you and what will be a “love tap” to another horse.  This behavior is easily correctable in a humane and safe manner.  We just have to express to her in a language that she understands, she has to learn behavior like that is not acceptable around you.  I hope I have given you a good understanding of how horses communicate and how they view certain things.  My suggestion to you is to find someone that is familiar with horse behavior and teaching ground manners and have them work with you to rectify this situation. 

 What most people do is send their horse out to get “trained”, and when they come back they are fine for a little while and then they start to revert back to what they were. Now is that because the training didn’t “stick”?  The answer is not only does your horse need to be trained but so does the horse owner.  Again remember the ranking, when your horse goes out for training a horse will learn that he’s not #1 (with the trainer), he will then come back to the horse owner in which he was #1, and unless the horse owner expresses that they are higher in the hierarchy the horse will start get pushy.  I will remind everyone that this is not about fear, this is about respect.  We have to respect our horses and our horses have to respect us.  In order to have a harmonious long term and happy relationship there needs to be respect on both ends.  And in their world, just like ours respect is not something just given away…………….respect is earned.

Dear Orlando, I have heard the term “bomb proofing” your horse, what is it and why is it beneficial?

  Bomb proofing simply refers to the process of training your horse with a systematic plan to become accustomed to many different circumstances, noises, and objects.  That is the easiest and most concise answer to what bomb proofing  is.   Bomb proofing your horse is extremely beneficial no matter what their job may be.  Any horse that has been conditioned to be comfortable with a multitude of distractions and frightening circumstances will be easier to deal with when presented with a new, scary or unfamiliar situation

  In order to best understand how to “bombproof” our horses we have to be able to understand and recognize that our horse has specific instincts and senses that have allowed them to survive in the wild.  What we are asking our horses to do by “bomb proofing” them is to be less reactive, to rely less on their instinct and to trust us (the rider or handler) and start using the thinking part of their brain versus the reactive part.  The instincts and senses that horses use for survival are; the “flight instinct”, the” victim instinct” the “herd instinct” and their vision.  All horses have these traits but they have them to varying degrees.  Also by understanding these traits we can recognize if the methods we are using are effective or not.

 The flight instinct causes the horse to flee from predators. He tries to escape when he’s frightened, he also uses speed to outpace danger. When you attempt to control your animal’s flight, your horse in essence, reacts by fighting for his life. He rears, bucks, shies, or bolts from whatever he perceives is going to cause him harm. We all have had or have seen horses react in this manner in a variety of situations

 The victim instinct is very similar to the flight instinct. Why do you think your horse thinks that the tent might eat him? Remember that for millions of years, horses have been prey, like deer or rabbits, instead of predators, like wolves and cougars. Their survival often has been dependent on his ability to notice a predator and bolt away from it before it had a chance to jump on them.

  In the herd instinct your horse will have the instinct to stay close to his equine friends. Even though all horses come with the herd instinct, the strength of the trait varies greatly from horse to horse.

 The fourth trait is vision and even though it is not really an “instinct,” how your horse sees the object around him affects his behavior. The reason he suddenly decides a particular rock looks frightening may well be because he sees it differently than you do, and not because he’s trying to make you insane. Your horse sees two different pictures at once because of the way his eyes are situated.  Unlike humans which see only one image, horses see two images simultaneously, they have a right image and a left image with a slight blind spot directly behind them.

 By understanding and recognizing these concepts we can better understand the why and how of our horse friends.  In the very near future we will have a clinic at the Bowler ranch that covers these concepts and will demonstrate how to get over scary obstacles and how to deal with them when they present themselves.

 I have ridden at your shows and had a lot of  fun.   I am trying to get my regular club to run RHR Gymkhana but they tell me that it takes a lot of equipment to run a match race.   Is that true and what is the minimal equipment requirement?

     Let me begin by saying that you can run an RHR Gymkhana match race single lane and enjoy all the benefits of the RHR Gymkhana year end awards program.   If your club has a set of Farmtec Polaris timers and some poles and barrels, you’re ready to go right now.  All you need is the computer program that you get from RHR (free of charge) and a computer to run it.    Your club could try a few single lane shows and then if they like it, invest in some additional equipment and run 2, 3 or 4 lanes.

    As to minimal equipment, most existing clubs have most of the equipment required for 2 or three lanes or can acquire it at a minimal cost.    If you give your events a little thought you can get by with very little initial equipment, for instance you can run Single Pole and Bucket Ball with 1 obstacle per lane,  Bow Tie, Figure 8, Figure 8 – 2, Poles Keyhole, & Single Pole plus  with two obstacles per lane.  You can run Short Poles, Short Poles 2, Speed Barrels, & Speed Barrels 2 with three obstacles per lane.

    So if your club wanted to and wanted to invest in (or possibly borrow) the timers, they could have a 6 event 4 lane show with just 8 poles which most clubs have anyway.  Note that we recommend that clubs start out running a two lane show and then progress to three or four lanes as their riders become familiar with match racing and additional equipment is purchased.

   Can you clear up the confusion regarding vaccines for my horse?  In the spring I give West Niles and another one I always forget the name.  I think it has tetanus plus other stuff and goes by the name of 4-way or 5 way.  In the winter I give another and I want to say it is a Rhino shot.  My horse is a mature horse and I don’t think I need strangles anymore.  HELP!!!!!!  Can you clarify this mystery and give me a schedule I can mark on my calendar?

   This is a very interesting and confusing question, and this is my recommendation,  Because there are SO many variables that go into a vaccination schedule that include age of horse, use of horse and geographical area, the best recommendation I can give is to look over the AAEP Guidelines for Vaccinations of Horses which can be found at www.aaep.org .  This chart is a suggested vaccination schedule provided by the American Association of Equine Practices (AAEP).   It is based upon generally accepted veterinary practices. These guidelines are neither regulations nor directives for all situations. It is the responsibility of the attending veterinarian, within the context of a valid veterinarian-client-patient relationship, to determine the appropriate vaccination needs for each patient.

 Dear Orlando,
    My horse just came in off the range and my horse shoer says he may not need shoes.    I have always had shoes on my horse and wonder if it's a good idea to leave a horse barefoot.  What do you think?

      Your shoer might be right, unfortunately the answer might not be as simple as a yes or a no, let’s take a closer look at the situation.  Horses out in the range travel vast distances to forage for food and water, because of this activity their feet “self trim” and become extremely hard and tough. Because of our horse keeping circumstances we cannot mimic the conditions that the horse was used to in his natural range conditions.  We keep them in small stalls and only come out to get worked, get turned out or put on the hot walker.  What tends to happen once we start to keep horses in confined conditions with limited activity are changes not only on the outside of the foot but as well as the inside.  With this decreased activity the hoof no longer “self trims” and it starts to get softer, along with this softness it can also become more sensitive.  One reason horseshoes were invented was because as horses became domesticated and kept in small quarters the integrity of the foot started to deteriorate.

      Don’t get me wrong, there are some horses that have the genetics to have hard feet.  These are horses that seem to do well going barefoot.  The best recommendation I can give you is keep a watchful eye on your horse.  He may not need shoes now, but depending on what sort of activity he gets and what you use him for, and his genetic predisposition he might eventually need shoes put on.

Why No Tennis Shoes

   Tennis shoes (often known as athletic shoes) have become a standard in most of our wardrobes according to my friend Josh who manages a nearby Adidas store.  It’s estimated that practically every closet in the country has at least one pair and most two to 10 pairs.   A large percentage of the population live in tennis shoe and only change into something else for special occasions.  There are running shoes, basket ball shoes, leisure shoes, fashion shoes ect. ect.– a tennis shoe for every occasion it seems.  Without a doubt, the tennis shoe has become a part of America’s wardrobe, and that will probably not change in the foreseeable future.  

    So why can’t you wear tennis shoes at horse shows.   Notice I said horse shows not RHR Gymkhana shows.  That’s because virtually every reputable recognized horse organization require that while showing, you ride in boots with a heel.   There have been numerous discussions as to the definition of “boot” and “heels” and some organizations have gone so far as to require a certain length heel and prohibit certain patterns on the soles on boots.     While we do not enter into the debate of lace up boots vs. slip on boots or ½ inch heel’s vs. 1 inch heel, we do recognize that “a heel” is a significant factor in keeping the foot from sliding through the stirrup.   For those of you that have never seen a rider fall off a horse and get dragged because their foot got caught in the stirrup, let me assure you it is a horrifying sight and not one that any of us want to see again.   

    Horses by nature are big, strong, dangerous animals and anyone that is around horses long enough is going to get hurt.    You’re going to get stepped on, bitten, pinched, pushed, knocked down, thrown of maybe just fall off, but sooner or later your going to get hurt.   Let’s try to keep these accidents to a minimum.  Most of us don’t wear hard hats and cowboy boot to the beach, let’s not wear swimming suits and tennis shoes to a horse show.

    So if you want to be stupid and not dress properly for a show, what does show management care?   It’s your body right?    Yes it is your body, but it’s managements show and as such management is legally responsible to do everything they can to make it as safe as possible so that no one gets hurt.   That’s why our rules require an 80 foot shut down area, because we want to make sure it’s safe.  That’s  why we require children to wear hard hats, because we have a responsible to try to keep them safe.  And that’s why we require boots with a heel, to try to keep everyone safe.  

     We can’t pick and choose which rules we are going to enforce.  The major organizations have set up their rules for a reason.  One of those reasons naturally is uniformity.   Another reason is safety.   While the membership of most organizations can change rules of uniformity, safety rules are a different story.  Most insurance companies decide whether or not to insure your activity and what the cost will be based on the expectation that you will conduct the business of your organization in a generally accepted manner consistent with accepted safety practices.   I have never seen a policy with a rider that gives show management the right to summarily dismiss safety rules violation.    The courts expect the same thing and when tragedy strikes and show management winds up in the courtroom, let’s pray that they have done everything in their power to insure that the shows they were running were conducted in the safest possible manner without compromise of any safety rules.   None of us ever wants to get in the position of having some child get hurt because they saw us do something unsafe and thought if it’s ok for us, it’s must be ok for them.   Remember adults and hot riders, the kids are watching.  And they are going to do what they see us do.  Lets be safe!

 

   My friend feeds her horse wheat bran so it won't colic.  Should I be feeding it to my horse?

    The feeding of bran to horses can sometimes be a topic of debate and misconception.  Let’s address this subject in 2 stages.  The first as it relates to colic.  What is colic?  Colic is a generic word that basically means stomach ache.  There are so many reasons and conditions which cause colic we won’t go into detail here.  But the question refers to the feeding of wheat bran and colic.  Most people feed wheat bran with the intention of increasing the fiber content of the horses’ diet or using it as a mild laxative as it pertains to the prevention of sand colic.  Although bran does have a moderate fiber content and does have a mild laxative effect one needs to be very careful when feeding it.  Without getting too in depth with equine nutrition I will make some broad statements to make my point clear.  Horses need both Calcium and Phosphorous in their diet; the proportion that they need it is usually a higher Calcium than Phosphorus ratio.  Wheat Bran has a higher Phosphorus than Calcium ratio.  So what happens is that if wheat bran is fed on a daily basis to horses there is the potential side effect of having that mineral imbalance.  If someone wants to feed wheat bran to their horse it is best fed only once a week.  By feeding it only once a week you still get some of the positive effects of wheat bran (mild energy, moderate fiber, and a mild laxative effect), while at the same time staying within a safe mineral balance in the feeding program.

What is the best thing to feed my horse?

   This is one the most asked questions and one of the ones that causes the most confusion and reason for debate.  If you are starting to read this in order to find that “magic answer” I will let you know now there is not one single way to feed.  What I will try and do is try and point out some of the factors that should be considered when developing a feed program.

   Let’s start out by asking ourselves a few questions about our horses and their activity.  What are we using our horses for, how old are they, are they pregnant, how much activity do they get during the week? We have to ask ourselves do we want to drop weight on our horse, gain weight, or maintain weight. What do we want to accomplish?  It sounds like a pretty simple question to ask but how many of us just go out there and start throwing flakes of hay without thinking about these factors?

   Something else to ask is what hay is best?  Should I feed Alfalfa, Bermuda grass, Timothy, Oat hay, or a 3-way blend.  The answer is “yes”, these are all quality feeds that are palatable to horses and a successful feeding program can be designed around.  Should I feed a commercial blended grain, rice bran, wheat bran, or beet pulp?  Am I confusing anyone yet?  How about supplements? The possibilities are endless. 

 You could have 4 horses in the barn and each one is fed just a little bit different because each horse has individual needs.  Now I’m not saying that horse #1 may need alfalfa, and horse #2 needs Bermuda, while horse #3 and #4 are being fed 3 way.  What I am saying is that we should be aware of our horses needs and maybe adjust the amount of hay that we feed, maybe the supplements we are feeding are unnecessary, or maybe we need to add a supplement to our feeding program. 

 Rule #1 in any feeding program is consistency, horses have a higher propensity to colic when anything in their environment changes in any measurable form, horses hate change. As their caretakers we have 100% control over what they eat so when making any feed change make it gradually and slowly. 

 Did this article leave you with more questions than answers?  Do you feel cheated because it didn’t the answer the question you were looking an answer for?  Then I’d say I did my job and that means I got you thinking about various factors to take into consideration when feeding your horses.  If you would like a specific answer to your question on feeds and feeding I suggest you email it to me.  orlandoalamillo@yahoo.com

Orlando, I have heard really exciting comments about your shows, running 4 across sounds really fun, but I am worried that my horse might get too excited on the line waiting for the horns to go off.

     This is a very good question and in order to best answer it lets address this matter in a few parts.  RHR can be a lot of fun, but at the same time we have to conduct ourselves in a courteous and safe manner.  To the onlooker it may not seem safe, but the safety of any horse related sport is completely dependent upon the participants involved.  Personally I'll take my chances doing four lane match racing rather than at the local barrel race in the warm up arena. 

    One of the biggest concerns and arguments against people participating in match racing is their concern that their horses become “hot” or “uncontrollable” before the horns goes off.  There are so many different factors and reasons on why horses become “hot” and sometimes the truth of the situation is hard to admit.

     Most of the time (remember I said most), the issue is with the rider.  Every time we do something with our horses whether it be a trail ride, a show, or just taking the horse out of its stall for a bath we are essentially training our horse.  Horses are creatures of habit and whatever habit we teach or allow our horses to do, they will learn whether it be good or bad.  Remember they are animals and not machines so they have their good days and bad days just like you and me. 

     If on a consistent basis we go into the arena and set up to run, the horse hears the buzzer and then shortly after that we run, it doesn't take long for the horse to catch on.  At first it may seem like a good thing because you start to become more competitive with a better start or a faster time because your horse has learned to run after the buzzer.  However, this becomes an issue if they start to anticipate and start early, or if we are in an arena where we need to hold them up for an extra half second so we don't red light.  The horse then thinks “Hey! I was able to run when I wanted to before and now you are holding me up”, this then causes a couple of things.  The horse gets out of position for an ideal start, or even worse, rearing.  Rearing usually happens when the horse feels trapped and he can't go right, left or forward. They only have one option and that is up.  When we were kids we thought it was cool to be like Roy Rogers (most of you must be asking who is Roy Rogers, go online and look it up), but it is a very dangerous behavior to allow our horses to do, unless you are an experienced professional.

     So the next question is how do we prevent this from happening, or how do we fix it?  The answer is easy, but the execution is going to take time and effort.  Fortunately with RHR, we are given an opportunity to “train at the show” and this is through the use of training rides and the single lane class.  Remember, it’s all about learning habits., We can utilize training rides by riding in the arena and just standing there and not running the event, we can also run the event but wait well after the horn has gone off, or we can run the event at a slower pace than we normally would run.  What this does is let your horse know just because you are in the arena doesn't mean you have to run the event at speed, or run the event when the horn goes off.  In an ideal world the horn should mean absolutely nothing to the horse and they do the event because you are asking them to do it. 

     So now that we have started good habits in the horse what about the rider?  We are just as guilty as the horse for anticipating.  Most people say “My horse knows the difference between a training ride and the real thing”.  The ONLY reason your horse knows this is because the rider is telling them that.  Although it may not be verbal communication, it is done through body language.  You see who you are riding against, or you hope you get a certain level time, or you are thinking like I do “I hope I don't fall off”.  Your horse can feel a fly on their back; don't you think they can feel you

  I am in the 8th grade and writing a paper about horses for my class project.   I love horses and read everything I can get my hands on but I haven't had my own horse yet.   Do you mind if I ask you a question even though I don't ride yet.  I'm hoping to get my own horse some day and would love to ride RHR Gymkhana when I do.   I have several questions:

    1st - Is there a really really good book I can buy that will teach me about horses, equipment and why horses do what they do? 

There are very many good books out on the market that are geared towards people that want to learn about horses.  A very good book that is very informative and easy to read is the following book:

CHERRY HILL'S
HORSE CARE FOR KIDS
Grooming - Feeding - Behavior - Stable & Pasture
Health Care - Handling & Safety

    2nd - I have heard the rhyme "One white foot buy me,  two white feet try me, three white feet deny me & four white feet fly me"  Is there any truth to this?    Doesn't seem to be to be a lot of horses with one white foot.

     In the horse world there are many sayings and some do have some merit to them and some do not.  This one seems to be a very popular one and from my experience it has little merit to it.  It has been said that horses with white feet and or white legs have more problems.  The fact of the matter is that they are no more prone to injury disease or physiological weakness than a horse with any other color feet or legs.  What we run into is that those individuals that do have issues that also possess white feet or legs are more noticeable.  What I mean is that a horse with four white socks and white feet stands out of a crowd more than a chestnut horse with no markings.

    3rd. - Do some colors of horses run faster then others?  I was told that normally appaloosa and pinto horses can't run as fast as a bay.  This would appear to be true from what I saw at the race track when my dad took me last year, but it seems like the early Indians seemed to prefer the colored horses.

     Horse color has nothing to do with how fast a horse runs.  If you take a look at the horses at the race track you will find the basic horse colors, chestnut, bay, and gray.  The reason for this is that color is not a deciding factor on which individuals to breed.  The selection process in racehorses is largely based upon speed and soundness.  If you take a look at some other breed registries they select for different traits.  In the Paint, Pinto and Appaloosa breed registries color is a large factor in the decision to breed and not necessarily speed.  In every individual breed there will be some horses that are faster than others, and if you go to a gymkhana or barrel race there will be horses of all breeds and colors that are very competitive.  The horses that Native Americans rode were predominantly of color and that is because those horses are descendents of the horses that the Spaniards let loose in early American history.  They preferred those horses because they liked the color, they not only had colorful horses but also horses that were very tough and fast.

     4th - Why do we have to shoe horses but the Indians did not?

     The decision on whether to shoe or not to shoe is largely based upon the capability of the individual horse.  Keep in mind that when Indians rode they kept their animals in large fields and they had a lot of land that they ran in, this made their horses feet very tough.  In addition to that, any horse that could not go barefoot usually became a meal for a mountain lion or other predator.  The individuals that were the toughest survived thus passing on those traits that allowed them to go barefoot.  On the other hand the traits we value are very different than what the Indians looked for. In addition we keep our horses under more confined conditions than the Indians. Also if we have a horse that cannot go barefoot they usually don’t become a meal, we take care of their feet and we make sure that they get the care they need.

    Dear Orlando,        I don't care very much about horses but my mom told me you know a lot about animals.  Can you tell me how much a duck eats every day?  Because I want to buy a duck and my mom says I have to buy the food.    Thank you, Betsy.

     To best answer your question I will address the different variables.  How much a duck eats is completely dependent upon the age and size of the duck.  A young duck will eat a lot more in relation to its body size than an adult duck.  The example I will give you is for an adult duck, an adult duck will eat about 3% of its body weight in food each feeding.  So if we take a 5 pound duck and figure 3% of its body weight it will come out to 2.4 - 3.0 ounces per feeding. That will give you a rough estimate of what they will normally consume.  The other thing to take into consideration is that ducks are very messy eaters, and they require water to eat their meal.  This means that there will be some degree of waste when you feed. If you take this into consideration 4 ounces of food per feeding, at least twice a day, this works out to a pound of food every two days as a bare minimum.  Hopefully this has answered your question and given you a base to start from.

  How much water does a horse drink in a day? (Normal temp in 70's & 80's)

      I wish I was an encyclopedia of all horse facts.  Since I did not know this one I did some research and this information is referenced from one of my printed sources.

     This brings up an interesting issue of debate that I will only touch on lightly. Is it best to water your horse with a water bucket or use an automatic waterer?  Both have its pros and cons.  You can better monitor and keep track of how much your horse is drinking using a water bucket, but an automatic waterer is much more convenient.  Both need to be checked on a regular basis and kept clean to insure that your horse is drinking the appropriate amount of water.

Dear Bob,

            I was recently at a show and while running an event my horse veered off course because of a flag flying near the arena.   I claimed interference and asked for a re ride but the Judge ruled no interference.    Was he wrong?

     The Judges call was correct.  Interference generally refers to another rider or animal entering your lane causing you to slow down your run.   While it is conceivable that something might happen outside the arena that could prompt an interference call, a flag flying near the arena that every rider has to contend with would not fall into that category.      

Let me pose another question—If you’re in lane three and a rider in lane 1 falls off their horse during the event, could that be interference?

     The answer is a definite “Yes”.   We always want you to act in a safe manner.  When a rider falls off their horse we want everyone in the arena to STOP.   The last thing we want it for anyone to do anything that might further endanger the fallen rider, the loose horse or another contender.  If you’re the rider in lane three and you stop your horse and claim interference you will get a re ride.

Dear Bob,      The RHR Gymkhana Board of Directors recently voted to require that a Head Judge must be present at all RHR Gymkhana shoes.   They went on to say that to become a Head Judge, one must successfully past a Judges Test and be certified.  I have two questions:  first what if a Head Judge can’t make it to a show and second how do you qualify for Head Judge.

      Your first question is real simple.  Without a Head Judge you can not run an RHR Gymkhana show.   Now should that ever be an issue?   Absolutely not.  Every show center should have three of four Head Judges.   Do they have to pass a test?  Yes but anyone who can run a show center should be able to pass the test.  I’m guessing we’ll have 7 or 8 individuals qualified as Head Judge at Simi before Jan 1.  Your show center can do the same.

       Regarding how you get qualified as a Head Judge, you will meet with me and take a test, in part written and in part oral.   I am in the final process of constructing the test at this time and will publish the questions on the internet once it is completed.  There are no trick questions, but to pass you will be required to know the rules and a little bit about the RHR Gymkhana organization and program in general.   Let me add that I sincerely believe that with a qualified Head Judge at each show, all of us will benefit.  The riders are going to be happier, show management will be happier and that will make RHR Gymkhana a better organization.

Dear Orlando,    My friend feeds her horse wheat bran so it won't colic.  Should I be feeding it to my horse?

      The feeding of bran to horses can sometimes be a topic of debate and misconception.  Let’s address this subject in 2 stages.  The first as it relates to colic.  What is colic?  Colic is a generic word that basically means stomach ache.  There are so many reasons and conditions which cause colic we won’t go into detail here.  But the question refers to the feeding of wheat bran and colic.  Most people feed wheat bran with the intention of increasing the fiber content of the horses’ diet or using it as a mild laxative as it pertains to the prevention of sand colic.  Although bran does have a moderate fiber content and does have a mild laxative effect one needs to be very careful when feeding it.  Without getting too in depth with equine nutrition I will make some broad statements to make my point clear.  Horses need both Calcium and Phosphorous in their diet; the proportion that they need it is usually a higher Calcium than Phosphorus ratio.  Wheat Bran has a higher Phosphorus than Calcium ratio.  So what happens is that if wheat bran is fed on a daily basis to horses there is the potential side effect of having that mineral imbalance.  If someone wants to feed wheat bran to their horse it is best fed only once a week.  By feeding it only once a week you still get some of the positive effects of wheat bran (mild energy, moderate fiber, and a mild laxative effect), while at the same time staying within a safe mineral balance in the feeding program.

    Dear Orlando, I have run gymkhana several times and love the speed and thrill.   But after a run or two all my horse wants to do is run, run, run.  Many times even refusing to turn an obstacle and instead running right past it.   On the trail the horse is fine but in an arena, not so good.   What do you think; do I need a new horse?     Signed desperate to run and have fun

     Gymkhana is a great sport, and most people don’t think there is much to it.  In fact there is quite a bit of training and control that goes into a successful run.  Like I have mentioned before every time we have any sort of contact with our horse we are training.  Anything we do more than once starts to become a habit, whether it is a good habit or a bad one.  The issue you are having is quite a common one.  Most people when they start in gymkhana try and go as fast as they can without taking into account the ability of the horse as well as their own experience.  You have trained your horse that every time that he enters the arena he gets to run, and he may love to run, but may not know the cues to slow down and rate before an obstacle, or the cue to turn an obstacle at a certain point.  The best thing you and your horse can do is slow down and try and do the course correctly, your horse will then learn through repetition on the correct way to do the event, and as you and your horse’s skill level increases so will the speed gradually.  Another thing that would help is to get advice from some of the advanced riders or practice with some of the more knowledgeable gymkhana riders in your club.

   Dear Orlando,    I have been getting the RHR Newsletter for a while now but have never been to a show.  I have run our local gymkhana a number of times and don't really understand the difference between what we're doing and Match Racing.   My friends tell me Match Racing takes a lot more control, is that true?

     Gymkhana match racing is very similar to regular gymkhana but there are some very distinct differences.  The first major difference is that you have multiple riders in the arena at the same time, in conjunction with that you have to stay in your assigned lane.  Another major difference between traditional gymkhana and gymkhana match racing is the time allowed before you start.  In regular gymkhana most clubs allow a full 60 seconds from the time you enter the arena to when you begin the course.  In gymkhana match racing that time has been significantly been reduced.  Once the system has been turned on everyone in all lanes has only a few seconds to cross the timing line, and cross the line without fouling out.  To best answer the question I will say this, to be a successful gymkhana rider control is very important, once you start gymkhana match racing control is a necessity.  There are quite a few riders that have transitioned from one system to another without any problems whatsoever, on the other hand any lack of control becomes more noticeable in the match racing arena.

    Dear Orlando,   I have a nine year old Arabian mare that I think is pretty fast and I'm thinking of giving gymkhana a try but my friends tell me that to be successful at gymkhana I need a quarter horse.    Is that true or can other breeds win as well?

    In order to be a successful gymkhana or match race horse/rider combination having a Quarter Horse is not a requirement.  In fact some of the best gymkhana and match race horses in various associations over the last 30 years have been Appaloosa, Arabian, and Thoroughbred horses of purebred or crossbred heritage.  Even though the Quarter Horse excels in a short distance sprint, that is not the only requirement to be successful at gymkhana, there are may other factors to consider.

 How well a horse turns, how much control a rider has over their horse as well as how responsive the horse is all contribute to the success in the gymkhana arena.  A smooth and correct run is always better than a fast yet haphazard run.  The smooth run has room for improvement while the latter will only get worse.  My best advice for you and your mare is to come out and give it a try, and don’t be afraid to ask questions or for help.

   Dear Orlando:    I have a 17 year old mare I got a year or so ago that I really don't have much history on.   I know it is an appendix quarter horse and from the tattoo presume it was on the track when it was younger.   The horse is quite spirited but has obviously had a lot of training.  She has a very smooth gate and consistently responds to my cues.    My question is this.    I have trailered the horse on several occasions with no problem although she obviously does not like the trailer.   At one point I fed her our of the trailer for month or so and that seemed to help.    On one occasion after being loaded we loaded another horse and she began kicking.  Now I'm not talking standing on one leg and kicking with the other, but rather both legs kicking out as high as your head.  In fact on this occasion she kicked over the butt chain and broke the trailer door.   Next time we tried to load her, same thing, but this time she was the only one in the trailer.   I have also seen her kick in a similar fashion after a long days work in the arena.  Almost like she is tired, angry and wants to quit.   She is a good horse and worth some time and trouble but she needs to get over this habit of kicking viciously. 

     This is a very interesting question in that there are a lot of possible causes that are the root of the behavior.  Without knowing the root cause of the behavior all we have as an option is to deal with the behavior in various steps to try and correct the behavior.  Sometimes for all the work we do because the habit is so engrained all we can do is improve the behavior and not totally eradicate it.  This behavior is not only a very annoying habit, but it can cause injury to the horse as well to people handling the horse along with the damage to property.  First I would try loading and trailering the horse alone to see if it has an issue of riding alone…it may be an issue of riding with another horse.  Or the horse might have issues riding with specific horses in the trailer.  In the beginning if we are able to determine the root cause of the problem, we can at least avoid those specific situations that cause the horse to kick out in the trailer.

     So how do we deal with an issue like this?  How do we try and correct this behavior in a safe manner that not only is humane for the horse but also safe for the handler. Before I give my suggestion I strongly recommend that you employ the assistance of someone that is familiar with the technique I am about to suggest and not attempt this as a novice.  A procedure like this might get you in a big wreck and cause a bigger issue than you originally had.  My suggestion is to use side hobbles.  First off what are side hobbles? Side hobbles are hobbles made of soft cotton rope or leather that restrict the movement of a front leg and hind leg on the same side of the horse simultaneously.  I would begin to train the horse in an arena or round pen to learn to wear the side hobbles so that when they feel that those two legs are bound together they will not kick.  Sometimes this lesson takes a day and sometimes this lesson takes a couple of weeks of consistent work to get the horse to the point where they are trained to the side hobbles.  After the horse is accustomed to wearing the side hobbles I would attempt to use them in the trailer.  It is much more difficult for the horse to kick out with the two hind legs when one is bound to the front leg.  At first the horse might try to kick out but it will be hindered by the hobbles.  Depending upon the individual horse the time it takes for them to rectify this habit will vary.  Again I remind everyone that this should only be attempted by or under the supervision of a professional, and that we take each step slowly.  Habits (good or bad) take time to develop and it takes time to develop new ones or change old ones.  After the horse has stopped kicking inside the trailer with the hobbles we can try trailering her for short periods to see if she kicks out.  This activity in itself can be dangerous especially if she is a vicious kicker, so we have to take baby steps.  Maybe the first ride is only around the block and the next one a couple of miles.  We then gradually increase the distance traveled in the trailer to give the horse a positive trailer riding experience.  We do this until we are confident that the horse has stopped the kicking habit and we can remove the hobbles and see how they do without them.  Hopefully this will rectify the situation, and again I cannot stress enough times the need for safety, self awareness and the need to be under the guide of a professional.

       The second part of the question is in regards to the same horse kicking out under saddle. Although it seems like the two habits are related as far as their root cause, the only thing that they have in common is the kicking out.  If the horse seems like it is kicking out in a tantrum fashion because it has had a long day and is getting tired we have to deal with it in a different manner than the trailer kicking issue.  We have to be able to take away her ability to kick out in a human manner.  The best way to accomplish this is through bending and flexing exercises.  It is more difficult for the horse to kick out if the head and neck are bent to one side.  This is because the horse is strongest when its entire body is straight from nose to tail. Bending and flexing exercises also relax the horse which will also reduce the tendency to kick out in frustration.  If the horse is no longer frustrated and relaxed it will be less likely kick out. 

If you have any questions regarding these question/answer feel free to email me at orlandoalamillo@yahoo.com